Your First Clothing Sample: What to Expect, What It Costs & Timeline

The sample is the contract between you and your factory. It is the physical agreement of what the production run will look like — the fabric, the fit, the construction, the colour, the stitching, the labels. Every detail.

And yet, sampling is the stage where we see the most frustration from new brands. Not because the process is broken, but because expectations are misaligned. First-time founders often expect the first sample to arrive perfect. It almost never does.

Understanding what the sampling process actually involves — how many rounds it takes, what it costs, what to send your factory, and what to check when the sample arrives — saves time, money, and stress. This guide covers all of it.

The quality of your sample depends directly on the quality of the information you provide. The more specific you are, the fewer sample rounds you need.

The Gold Standard: A Tech Pack

A tech pack is a detailed specification document that tells the factory exactly what to produce. A good tech pack includes:

• —Flat sketches — Front, back, and detail views of the garment with callouts for design details
• —Measurements — A complete measurement chart with tolerances (e.g., chest width: 56cm ±1cm)
• —Fabric specification — Composition, GSM, colour (Pantone reference), finish
• —Construction details — Seam types, stitch density, hem style, ribbing specs
• —Labels and trims — Main label, care label, hang tags, drawcords, zips, buttons
• —Artwork files — Print or embroidery designs with placement, size, and colour specs

For a complete guide to creating one, read how to create a tech pack.

The Realistic Alternative: Reference Garments and Sketches

Many brands — especially first-time founders — do not have a tech pack. That is fine. We work with brands at every level of preparation. Here is what you can send instead:

• —Reference garments — Buy 2–3 garments from other brands that represent the fit, fabric, and style you want. Ship them to us with notes ("I want this fit but with this fabric weight and a wider cuff")
• —Sketches — Even hand-drawn sketches with annotations. Show us the silhouette, the neckline, the sleeve length, the key design details
• —Mood boards — Images showing the aesthetic, colour palette, and design references
• —Photos — Screenshots from other brands with notes on what you like and what you would change

The more information you provide, the closer the first sample will be to your vision. But even with a perfect tech pack, expect adjustments.

Not all samples are the same. The sampling process typically moves through these stages:

Proto Sample (Prototype)

The first physical interpretation of your design. Often made in a substitute fabric (whatever is available in the factory that is close to your specification) to test the pattern, proportions, and construction.

• —Purpose: Test the overall shape, silhouette, and construction method
• —Fabric: May not be the final production fabric
• —Colour: Often white or whatever stock fabric is available
• —Decoration: Not included at this stage
• —What to evaluate: Proportions, fit, construction quality, overall direction

Fit Sample

A refined sample incorporating feedback from the proto. Made in a fabric closer to (or identical to) the production fabric.

• —Purpose: Evaluate fit, drape, and fabric performance
• —Fabric: Should be the actual production fabric or very close to it
• —Colour: Closer to final colour, but may not be exact Pantone match
• —Decoration: Basic placement only (no final artwork)
• —What to evaluate: How the garment fits on a body, how the fabric drapes, whether the proportions work in the intended material

Pre-Production Sample (PP Sample)

The final approval sample. This is what the production run will replicate. Made in the exact production fabric, with all labels, trims, prints, and embroidery in place.

• —Purpose: Final sign-off before production begins
• —Fabric: Exact production fabric, exact colour
• —Colour: Final Pantone match
• —Decoration: Final artwork, final placement, final technique
• —What to evaluate: Everything. This is your last chance to request changes

Sales Sample (Optional)

Some brands request additional samples for photography, trade shows, or sales meetings. These are produced to production standard and are essentially finished garments.

Budget for 2–3 sample rounds per style. This is the industry standard, not a sign that something is wrong.

• —Round 1 (Proto/Fit): Establishes the direction. Nearly always requires adjustments — sleeve length, body width, ribbing tension, fabric hand feel
• —Round 2 (Revised Fit): Incorporates your feedback. Most styles are close to final at this point
• —Round 3 (PP Sample): Final approval with production fabric, labels, and decoration

Some styles nail it in two rounds. Complex designs (cargo joggers, lined jackets, multi-panel hoodies) may need three or four. Simple designs (basic crew neck tees) sometimes get approved after a single round.

The key: Provide clear, specific feedback after each round. "The sleeves feel too long" is useful. "It does not look right" is not.

Sampling is not free. The factory invests time, materials, and labour into producing a single garment — which is actually more expensive per unit than producing in bulk because there are no economies of scale.

Typical Sample Costs

• —Basic t-shirt or tank top: €50–€80 per sample
• —Sweatshirt or crew neck: €80–€120 per sample
• —Hoodie: €100–€150 per sample
• —Joggers or bottoms: €100–€150 per sample
• —Jacket: €120–€200 per sample
• —Complex garments (lined, multi-panel, cargo): €150–€250+ per sample

These costs cover:

• —Pattern making or pattern adjustment
• —Fabric sourcing (or using factory stock fabric for protos)
• —Cutting and sewing (one-off production)
• —Finishing and pressing
• —Shipping to you

Are Sample Costs Refundable?

Some factories refund sample costs when you proceed to production. Others do not. At White Cotton, we are transparent about sample costs upfront and discuss refund policies before beginning work.

How to Manage Sample Budgets

For a first collection of 4–5 styles, budget €1,000–€2,000 for the sampling process, accounting for 2–3 rounds per style. This is a real cost that many new brands underestimate.

At White Cotton, sample turnaround is 7–10 working days from the point we have all necessary information (tech pack or reference, fabric selection, measurements).

Here is a realistic timeline for a new style:

• —Week 1–2: You send your brief. We review, ask clarifying questions, and confirm fabric availability
• —Week 2–3: Proto sample is produced and shipped to you
• —Week 3–4: You evaluate the proto, provide feedback
• —Week 4–5: Revised fit sample is produced and shipped
• —Week 5–6: You evaluate the fit sample, provide final feedback
• —Week 6–7: PP sample is produced with final fabric, labels, and decoration
• —Week 7–8: You approve the PP sample

Total time from initial brief to production approval: 6–10 weeks. This is normal. Plan your launch timeline accordingly.

When your sample arrives, resist the temptation to just try it on and declare it good or bad. Evaluate it systematically.

Measurements

Take every measurement and compare to your spec sheet:

• —Chest width (measured 2.5cm below armhole)
• —Body length (from highest point of shoulder to hem)
• —Sleeve length (from shoulder seam to cuff)
• —Shoulder width (seam to seam)
• —Hem width
• —Collar opening

Acceptable tolerance: ±1cm on body measurements, ±0.5cm on smaller details. If anything is more than 2cm off, flag it immediately.

Fabric

• —Does the weight feel right? (If you ordered 350 GSM, does it feel like 350 GSM?)
• —Is the colour correct? (Compare to your Pantone reference in natural daylight, not artificial light)
• —Is the hand feel as expected? (Soft, brushed, crisp, structured?)
• —Stretch recovery — stretch the fabric and see if it bounces back

Construction

• —Check every seam — are they clean, consistent, and properly overlocked?
• —Is the neckline symmetrical?
• —Are the shoulders even?
• —Is the hem even and properly stitched?
• —Check the label placement — centred, straight, securely attached?
• —Check the ribbing tension — does it feel right, or too tight/loose?

Wash Test

This is the step most brands skip and then regret.

Wash the sample. Wash it exactly how your customer will wash it — standard machine wash, tumble dry if that is common in your market. Then measure again.

• —Did it shrink? By how much? (More than 3% is a problem)
• —Did the colour fade or bleed?
• —Did the print crack, peel, or distort?
• —Did the fabric pill?
• —Did the garment twist?

A garment that looks perfect unwashed but shrinks 5% or twists after laundering is not ready for production.

1. 1.Providing vague feedback — "Make it better" gives the factory nothing to work with. Be specific: "Reduce sleeve length by 2cm, increase body width by 1.5cm, ribbing tension is too tight"
2. 2.Rushing to production — Brands excited to launch skip the PP sample and go straight from fit sample to production. This often results in a bulk order that does not match expectations
3. 3.Not testing on multiple body types — Your sample is made in one size (usually M or L). If possible, get a second sample in a different size to check how the grading works
4. 4.Changing too many things between rounds — Change 2–3 things per round, not 15. Otherwise you lose track of what changed and what improved
5. 5.Ignoring the interior — Brands focus on how the garment looks from the outside and forget to check the interior finishing — seam quality, neck tape, label comfort, thread trimming

We have been through the sampling process thousands of times. We know that for most brands, especially first-time founders, this is uncharted territory. That is why we guide you through every step — from initial brief to final PP sample approval.

Our sampling turnaround is 7–10 working days. Our factory is in Barcelos, Portugal, and we ship samples worldwide. If you are ready to start developing your first garments, get in touch and we will walk you through the process.

Pedro Carreira

Founder of White Cotton, a textile manufacturer in Barcelos, Portugal. Producing custom clothing collections for brands across 15+ countries.

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