The Complete Guide to Hoodie Manufacturing: From Design to Delivery

The hoodie is the most popular product category we manufacture — and for good reason. Hoodies have the highest perceived value of any casual garment, they work across seasons, and they are the first item many new brands produce.

Whether you are launching a clothing brand, an athleisure brand, or a premium basics line, understanding hoodie construction will help you make better decisions and communicate more effectively with your manufacturer.

Fleece Types

French terry — looped interior, smooth exterior. Lighter weight (280–350 GSM), year-round wearable. The loops give a slight stretch and breathability. Best for: three-season hoodies, lighter weight pieces, brands targeting warmer climates.

Brushed fleece — interior loops are brushed into a soft, fuzzy pile. Heavier feel (320–450 GSM), warmer. The brushing creates the cosy feeling people associate with premium hoodies. Best for: autumn/winter, premium positioning, streetwear.

Reverse fleece — the looped side faces outward, creating a textured exterior. The smooth side sits against the skin. Best for: fashion-forward brands, unique texture, differentiation.

Weight

Composition

Hood construction

Two-panel hood: Front and back panels joined by a centre seam. Most common, clean look.

Three-panel hood: Two side panels with a centre strip. Creates a more structured, rounded shape. Common in premium and fashion hoodies.

Lined hood: Interior lined with jersey or contrasting fabric. Adds weight, warmth, and a premium detail.

Double-layer hood: Full double-thickness hood. Maximum warmth and structure. Used in heavyweight streetwear.

Pocket types

Kangaroo pocket: Single front pocket across the abdomen. The classic hoodie pocket. Open ends for hand warming.

Split kangaroo pocket: Kangaroo pocket with a centre seam creating two compartments. Slightly more structured look.

Side seam pockets: Pockets set into the side seams. Cleaner, more minimal aesthetic. Common in premium and athleisure.

No pocket: Clean, minimal front. Growing trend in premium basics.

Ribbing

Cuffs and waistband ribbing affects both aesthetics and function:

Drawcords

Often overlooked, but a significant design detail:

Regular fit

Standard body width, set-in sleeves at the natural shoulder point. The classic hoodie shape.

Oversized fit

Extended body width (10–15cm wider than regular), drop shoulders (seam falls below natural shoulder), longer body and sleeves. Currently dominant in streetwear and premium basics.

Boxy / cropped

Wide body with a shorter length, creating a square silhouette. Popular in women's and gender-neutral collections.

Fitted / athletic

Closer to the body, sometimes with raglan sleeves. Performance or athleisure positioning.

Screen printing

Best for: bold graphics, solid colours, high volume. Cost-effective at scale. Each colour requires a separate screen (setup cost €30–60 per colour). The industry standard for streetwear and branded hoodies.

DTG (Direct to Garment)

Best for: complex, multi-colour designs, photo-realistic prints, small runs. No setup costs but higher per-unit cost. Works best on lighter coloured fabrics.

Embroidery

Best for: logos, small designs, premium branding. Creates a tactile, premium finish. Digitisation cost (one-time €30–80) plus per-unit stitching cost. Heavier fabrics handle embroidery better than lightweight ones.

Puff print

Screen print with a raised, three-dimensional effect. Popular in streetwear. Adds €0.50–1.50 per position over standard screen print.

Appliqué

Cut fabric pieces sewn onto the garment. Labour-intensive but creates a high-end, handcrafted look. Common in varsity and luxury streetwear.

A standard hoodie size chart (regular fit, in cm):

For oversized fit, add 6–10cm to chest width and 2–4cm to length, with drop shoulders extending 4–8cm beyond natural shoulder.

Important: These are garment measurements, not body measurements. Your size chart for customers should include both.

For a hoodie order (100 units, with screen print):

For a 380 GSM brushed fleece hoodie with screen print, made in Portugal:

These are indicative ranges. Your specific design, fabric choice, and finishing will affect the final price. For a detailed breakdown, read our clothing production costs guide.

Hoodies are our specialty at White Cotton. We produce them in every weight from 280 to 480 GSM, in organic cotton, conventional cotton, and blends. From classic pullovers to double-layer constructions, we have the patterns, the machines, and the expertise to produce exactly what your brand needs.

Our MOQ for hoodies is 50 units per style per colour. We offer sampling from €80 per piece, with turnaround in 5–10 working days. Browse our hoodie collection or get started with a quote.